Dieses Blog durchsuchen

Posts mit dem Label Buddha werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Buddha werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Sonntag, 29. Mai 2011

Part 17 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land

A lintel ready to be sold in the black market...


The Demise of the Khmer Empire

After the death of the Khmer King Jayavarnam VII around 1220 AD the glory of the empire subtly diminished.

The Siamese conquered Ankor Wat in 1351 for the first time thus having control over Preah Vihear as well. For the last time the Khmers were able to recapture Ankor Wat again, but only to lose it to the Siamese in the year 1431 for centuries to come. During a rebellion in the 17th century the Khmers managed to win a battle, but not the independence from Siam. As a reminder the Khmers named a village close to Ankor Wat “Siem Reap”, meaning: “the defeat of Siam”. The Khmer success of this battle was short lived, but Siem Reap, the gateway to Ankor Wat, with its international airport nowadays became a well known travel destination and its name remains a thorn in the side of Thailand.        

The year 1431 AD can be considered the end of the Khmer empire, an empire so powerful and large that was never seen before in this geography. From now on the area that is now called Cambodia became a playing field of foreign forces like Siam, Vietnam and France. The Siamese Royals considered themselves as the rightful successors of the Khmers royal house and took over rituals, customs and culture of the Khmer Kings.  

And then came the European colonists, the French and the British. They carried instruments in their luggage never seen before by the locals, instruments that enabled the colonists to define exact borders at the edges of their claims. These borders were then sketched on paper for everyone to be seen. However, the locals never have been able to make sense out of these strange drawings called maps. And so it came that the Siamese signed a treaty with the French in the year 1907 accepting the borders between then Indochina and Siam. Siam had to give up Ankor Wat and other areas of Cambodia. The map defining the border between Cambodia and Siam was attached to the agreement. This border is still valid today.

The only thing the Siamese understood in this context was the term “watershed”. The treaty expressed in words that whenever possible natural geographical features like escarpments, mountains and rivers establish the borders between Siam and Indochina. The Dangrek mountain range is such a natural feature. It represents a watershed.

For ominous reasons the French made an exception in the case of Preah Vihear. Instead of using the edge of the Dangrek escarpment as the border, they deviated from this rule as expressed in the treaty and draw the border generously around Preah Vihear so that it remained on Cambodian soil. Siam ordered copies of this map from the French and distributed them to the province governors and other government institutions.



The border conflict seemed to be settled once and for all, but…

…it took the Siamese and then called the Thais almost 30 years to recognize their mistake. Meanwhile smart enough to handle instruments for land surveys they set up their own border commission in 1934 to verify the borderline between Thailand and Cambodia. For the first time they stumbled over the Preah Vihear issue, but did not protest. They just considered the French map of 1907 a sloppy drawing. In the minds of the Thais Preah Vihear was without any doubt on Thai soil.

In the year 1953 Cambodia celebrated the independence day from France. Proud of their ancient past they chose Preah Vihear besides Ankor Wat as one of the locations for the festivities. Thailand felt provoked and stationed their troops on Preah Vihear temple grounds in 1954. Relationships between both countries deteriorated and resulted in a breakup of diplomatic relations in 1958.                

In 1959 Cambodia called the international court of justice for help. In 1962 this court ruled that the temple grounds belong to Cambodia, but left precise border definitions open.

Since then it is a never-ending story. Every time one of both countries faces internal problems or takes one-sided initiative in respect to Preah Vihear the politicians and/or the military try to draw the attention to the border issue away from the real domestic problems. Then shootouts at short distance from each other determine the headlines of the media and lots of nationalistic phrases are muttered.       

Preah Vihear could be a lively place where peoples of many countries meet, full of joy and respect for ancient cultures. Thailand and Cambodia could manage the tourist business jointly, initiate renovation of ruined buildings and let Preah Vihear rise up to new glory. It could be a win-win situation for both countries, but as long as they are deeply involved in their own internal problems chances are low to come to an agreement.

The fight for 4.6 square kilometres will go on for a while. This map shows the borders as drawn by the French in 1907 and signed by both parties (old). So far the Khmers can reach the temple grounds on food walking on their own turf. If the border would be changed to “new” the Khmers were forced to cross the border to Thailand  before entering Preah Vihear unless they come by helicopter or build a cable car going up to the edge of the Dangrek escarpment 500 metres above. 


 Source: Bangkokpost.


But the day will come. The Thais and Khmers who will stroll around Preah Vihear in peace and friendship are already born. Hope is the last thing to die.

And this is how it will all end. Once Lord Shiva starts to dance and thus annihilating the universe to make room for its re-birth the next morning, it will be too late.

Lord Shiva destroying the universe


Final remark: it’s by intention that the author does not position himself clearly on one side or the other. It’s his humble opinion that participation in further polarization will not contribute to a solution of this conflict. The frontiers of opinions are established since 50 years anyway and more than enough suffering was imposed on the people living in the vicinity of this border post. Not to mention the continuous destruction of what is left of the Preah Vihear buildings. The only way out is compromise and understanding. Whoever reaches out his hand unselfishly first will be the modern hero of Preah Vihear.  

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, May 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   

Freitag, 27. Mai 2011

Part 16 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land



At the Edge

After passing the gallery it’s just a few meters over sandy and rocky grounds and the visitor stands at the edge of the Dangrek escarpment. One step further means certain death. The rim is unsecured. A large vertical cliffside faces Cambodia approximately 500 m below. 

There are traces of a small stone pit all over the place. It was here where the Khmers cut the early stones to lay down the foundation of Preah Vihear in the late 9th and early 10th century AD and built the first humble sanctuary dedicated to Lord Shiva.



A breathtaking view opens up onto the wide plains of Cambodia deep down. The sounds are cushioned as if the slight breeze carries them away before they reach the ear. Giant hawks and eagles surf the skies without a wing beat in the upcurrents, occasionally proclaiming their high pitch call of freedom.    



The Khmer empire was at no times a static affair with defined borders as we know them today. With the exception of the core around Ankor Wat the geography was ruled by more or less influential Khmer powers. The edges of the Khmer Kingdom continuously shrivelled away or expanded.

Almost unnoticed by chroniclers the so called Tai people seeped steadily but in relatively small numbers into North-Vietnam, North-Laos, Burma and North-Thailand long before the Khmer empire reached its peak in the 13th century AD. They did that in small groups travelling along the rivers. At first without ambitions to be self ruled on larger scale. That changed dramatically when the Mongolian chieftain Kublai Khan pressed south. Tens of thousand of Tai people took off, left their homelands in South-China, one of them Yunnan, and followed their ancestors into Vietnam, Laos, Burma and Thailand.         

After they reached the “critical mass” in North-Thailand it was only a question of time before a charismatic Tai leader was born who strived towards his own kingdom with independence from the Khmers as a final target.

In 1259 AD the Tai king Mengrai founded the Lan Na kingdom in North-Thailand with Chiang Rai first and Chiang Mai later as the center. Lan Na, the land of the million rice fields.

Almost at the same time, in the year 1238, Pho Khun Sri Indraditya founded the Kingdom of Sukhothai south of Lan Na. His son Ramkhamhaeng being known as the dear father of all Thai subjects. Both kings were warrior kings and expanded their kingdom significantly on the expense of the Khmers. Sukhothai, the dawn of happiness, as it is romantically idealised by the official Thai history books. The year 1238 AD is considered the birth year of the Thai-nation. That’s more than 400 years after the Khmer nation was founded. History books distinguish between “Tai” and “Thai” from now on, with the term “Siamese” for Tais in what is today Thailand becoming the most frequently used term.         

Sukhothai was then superseded by Ayutthaya with king U-Thong in the central plains of Thailand in 1350 AD.

In Laos changes took place too. Lan Ngum, a military Tai-man trained by the Khmers, founded the kingdom of Lan Chang, the land of the million elephants, in 1353.       

They all found themselves in competition with the Khmers. Whereas the Lan Na and Lan Chang kings seemed to be satisfied by the extent of their lands, nursing their farming, trading, handicraft and cultural skills, the Siamese warrior kings strived for more…  

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, May 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   


stay tuned...

Sonntag, 22. Mai 2011

Part 15 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land


3rd Avenue, 4th Gopura and Gallery


The 3rd Avenue is quite short. The long body of the Naga serpent borders both sides. Her seven faces directed North, starring at the arriving visitors.

The body of the Naga lines the 3rd avenue


View back to the King's Palace. A lion guards the entrance to the 4th Gopura

The sanctuary inside the gallery is the oldest part of Preah Vihear, consecrated to Shiva and supposedly built towards the end of the 9th century. The stones of the sanctuary were cut out of the nearby rocks at the edge of the escarpment. The traces are obvious. A gallery surrounds it.   


The gallery


Half of the sanctuary was destroyed by artillery, either by Thais or by Cambodian government troops fighting the Khmer Rouge, whose hard core remnants entrenched here until 1998.


This is the site that witnessed beginning and end of the Khmer Empire, happiness and atrocities, change of rulers and religions, eventful times. For a long time the Khmer kings ruled in the name of Lord Shiva the destroyer supported by Lord Vishnu the preserver.

Descendants of the Khmers visiting their ancient place of pride

The Siamese Kings, who would become the successors of the Khmers in this geography eventually, took over the godly tradition of the Khmer rulers and blended it with Buddhism. They abandoned Lord Shiva and saw themselves as deputies of Lord Vishnu the preserver on earth. This is still the case today, alleviated though. The Kings of the Chakri-Dynasty call themselves Rama, the 7th incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The Bangkok city seal shows Lord Indra riding a white elephant called Erawan, the government emblem or crest of Thailand depicts Garuda, the mystic bird and companion of Lord Vishnu. There are many other Hindu traditions celebrated in Thailand still today. Loy Krathong is one of them to name just one.

The lengthy name for Bangkok: “Krungthep Maha Nakhon Amorn Rattanakosin…” etc. does not contain a single reference to Lord Buddha or Buddhism, but to the Hindu Gods Lord Indra (Thai: Phra In) and Lord Vishnu (Thai: Phra Narai) only.

At the same time the Thai Kings considered and consider themselves as the supreme custodians of Buddhism. Thais don’t draw a sharp line between the Hindu pantheon and Buddha. Instead they absorb the Hindu Gods and convert them into servants and supporting companions of Lord Buddha. The Hindus do it the other way around. For them Lord Buddha is just one of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu.  

Preah Vihear was dedicated to Lord Shiva. A Shiva lingam or a Shiva statue once decorated this small chamber inside the gallery at the topmost location. Today this small room is dedicated to Lord Buddha.



Sometimes in the 13th or 14th century the colourful Mahayana Buddhism strengthened in the Khmer Empire under the influence of Chinese traders. However, people never have been divided by their believe. They saw this as an enrichment to the heavens and just worshipped the idols of both religions at the same time. Same as is the case in Thailand today. The Ratchaprasong intersection in Bangkok is the best example for this attitude. The Hindu God Lord Brahma, the creator, Phra Prom in Thai, in the Erawan shrine enjoys the main attention among the Thai Buddhists. Lord Ganesh with the elephant head and Shiva's son in front of the CentralWorld shopping center is frequently visited by students before examinations and by entrepreneurs before setting up or investing into a new business.

The Mon culture and their more strict and back to the basics Theravada Buddhism eventually substituted the younger Mahayana Buddhism in the Khmer empire. Some historians claim that this was the beginning of the end of the divine and powerful Khmer rulers. These historians argument that Lord Shiva lost his role as the sole heavenly ruler and therefore his deputies on earth, the Khmer kings, along with him. To make matters worse, the Theravada Buddhism delivers the message that everybody is responsible for his own destiny and fate, inherits the potential to be enlightened and for this reason can end his suffering forever by not being reborn again.             

This might be a romantic view of believers, but is not failing some logic at least. The more obvious reasons for the fall of the Khmer Empire are much more down to earth however. The light at the end of the tunnel means demise for the Khmers and hope for the ambitious Siamese...

View through the hallways of the 4th Gopura

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, May 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   


stay tuned...