Part 8 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land

Stone Staircase and 1st Gopura

The ascend from the Thai side begins right after passing the Khmer sign “Preah Vihear Temple”, not before paying the entrance fee of 200 Baht. Thai visitors very often ask one common question: ”And what’s the price for Thais?” To their surprise the simple answer is: “same same.” Latest by then many Thais recognize grudgingly for the first time that they are on foreign turf from now on.

   The schematic drawing of Preah Vihear above helps the visitor to understand where his/her current location is. The following pictures are in order from right to left, or in geographical terms, from North to South. That can be quite a challenge for the shutterbugs, because the sun will be up front all the way uphill. There is no automatic camera which can cope with that kind of back light. Therefore it is recommended to arrive in the morning as early as possible. A meaningful stopover at this place usually lasts at least three to four hours. For the passionate fan of ancient Khmer ruins it can easily be one full day. 

The Preah Vihear Temple tour starts with a nice work out up the stone staircase. At peaceful times a lively place for tourists and hawkers. Kids sell postcards, others unidentified Khmer essences and lucky charms. They know the numbers in English and Thai perfectly. But there’s where the conversational skills with foreigners end.

Some kids have a break, count their income, sort their postcards and listen to music on a Chinese walkman.  

We are now on our way climbing up stone staircases, strolling along Avenues and passing through Gopuras, these monumental richly ornamented Gates leading into ancient buildings of various purposes and finally reaching the holy place, the gallery with a temple inside, where once Shiva was worshipped.

So far the visitor has no idea what to expect. The Gopuras and buildings are hidden below the horizon, hidden from the eyes of people on the stone staircase.   

How did this area look like almost 1200 years ago? There’s lots of room for speculation and fantasy. Assuming that the Shiva temple at the most Southern end by then was in the works, there was definitely no staircase yet. Maybe a forest aisle has been already cut through the djungle, maybe the Khmers by then climbed up the exhausting path from what is called Cambodia today. A new nation was just forming. In 802 AD King Jayavarnam II declared independence from the ancient Kingdom of Java. Water and land Chenlas were united under his rule, protected by the very same Hindu Gods, they learnt to know from the Java rulers.

It is fair to assume that the Dangrek escarpment at that time was the most northern domain under the influence of the charismatic Khmer leader King Jayavarnam. To make this known to the people living in these realms he started to build a place of worship for the mighty Lord Shiva, the destroyer of the universe at the end of a cosmic day, lasting 4,320,000,000 solar years, and the merciful facilitator for a new universe the following dawn. That’s all what there was in the 9^th century AD. Jayavarnam’s successors continued building by extending Preah Vihear with palaces, libraries, halls for festivities and living quarters for the royals and their guests.           

Buddhism didn’t play any important role in the people’s mind by then, although Mon traders, coming from what is Thailand and Burma today, might have spread the word in the Khmer world already. Alcoves were decorated with Shiva statues and lintels (pediments) covered with stone carvings telling the many legends of Shiva's heavenly life.

The symbols of power, however, were the same in the whole geografie. The lion…

…and the Naga, nak in Thai. This formidable serpent, often depicted with seven heads, and the sovereign of the waters. Whoever has this creature on his side or is guarded or protected by it, is invincible. The Khmer Kings gathered gifted stonemasons around them and ordered them to chisel the symbols of their power. There is no Khmer temple without Lions and Nagas.             

Naga at the Nagaraj Courtyard shortly before Gopura 1

After passing these fearsome guards and almost reaching the top of the stone staircase a look back is allowed…

And finally the tip of the first Gopura rises over the horizon, proudly presenting the Cambodian flag. Blue – red – blue with three Ankor Wat Prangs in white.   

The first Gopura is in a miserable state. It suffered most during the many conflicts this place experienced. Grenades have smashed its walls and the stones were used for something else, bunkers and the like, its treasures stolen. 

Just one lintel above the entrance survived. Surprisingly, because they are considered very valuable among collectors all over the world. But there used to be four of them. One on each point of the compass.  

Not much to awe about at the first Gopura, except some feelings of sadness might sneak into someone’s mind, when glancing back at this mostly man made ruination.

Ahead lies the first avenue, an invitation for a pleasant walk after all these steps on the stone staircase…

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, April 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   

stay tuned... 

Das Ghetto

Wir hatten ein Problem. Ein Problem mit der Firmen-Ethik.

Das Innenministerium in Saudi Arabien hatte uns kontaktiert und nach einer Offerte für die Modernisierung ihres Computer-Systems gefragt. Dieses enthält die Daten aller Mitbürger und Expats, Visa records aller Ein- und Ausreisenden, criminal records, Waffenbesitzer, eine Schiiten-Datenbank (denn sie könnten ja mal irgendwann zuschlagen), und die berühmte "black list". 

Über letztere haben die Saudis mit mir oft rumgealbert und mich des öfteren gefragt, ob ich geheime Rachegedanken gegen irgendjemand hege. Andererseits haben sie mir im Spass damit gedroht, mich auf dieselbe zu setzen, falls ich nicht ab und zu eine Quelle für den allseits beliebten, weil verbotenen, Alkohol aufmache. 

Das Innenministerium war drei Jahre lang mein Kunde und ich nahm freudestrahlend die Anfrage für eine Offerte entgegen. HW/SW und die Migration der Daten in eine moderne Datenbank waren so ungefähr USD 10Mio wert. 

Aber meine Corporation sperrte sich. "Wir machen keine IT Deals mit Institutionen, die im Verdacht stehen, gegen die Menschenrechte zu verstossen", waren deren hehre Worte. Betreuen durften wir sie schon. Hier und dort eine kleinere "Main Frame" Installation. Aber nur zu "Trainings- und Testzwecken." Die reinste Heuchelei. 

Aber die Karotte hing an der Angel, mittlerweile genau vor der Nase unseres ach so moralisch gesinnten Hauptquartiers in Armonk, USA. USD 10Mio bei einer Profit-Marge von bis zu 70% sind ein unwiderstehliches Argument. 

70% ? Ja, Das waren einmal die Margen bei den "Main Frames." Da kommen jedem PC Händler die Tränen in die Augen heutzutage. 

So kam es, dass hoher Besuch aus unserem HQ eintraf. Seine Aufgabe war, den Zweck dieses Deals so unschuldig zu formulieren, dass er bedenkenlos irgendwelche ethischen Prinzipien passieren konnte. 

Ein schlanker, grauhaariger Gentlemen aus Texas, der mit den CEOs von Boing, Ford und Amex schon oft genug an irgendwelchen Hotel Bars einen durchgezogen hatte, stellte sich recht symphatisch bei uns vor. Ich durfte ihn in die Geheimnisse unseres Kunden einweihen. 

Sein Aufenthalt in Saudi Arabien war zunächst für sechs Wochen geplant. Eine Ewigkeit in der Hölle, wie er mir schon am zweiten Tag gestand. Ihm ging dieses ganze Gehabe in der Öffentlichkeit gehörig auf den Geist. Geschäfte schliessen während der "Prayers Time." Unartige Kunden werden von den Motauwas (Religionswächter) per Stockhiebe auf die Unterschenkel hinausbegleitet, falls sie nicht freiwillig Folge leisten. Die meisten Saudi-Damen liefen schwarz verschleiert umher. Damals allerdings die wenigsten noch mit absoluter Gesichtsverschleierung. Es gab keine Kneipen, kein Glas Wein zum Dinner, und an den Hotel Bars nur Saudi-Champagne. Sprudelwasser mit Apfelsaft gemischt und ein paar Minzeblättern darin. 

Aber unser Spezie, nennen wir ihn Jack, wäre nicht in diese Position gelangt, ohne ein Schlitzohr zu sein. 

Schon am zweiten Abend fragte er mich, wie ich denn wohne. Wie gross mein Apartment wäre und überhaupt...wie sturmfrei. 

"Ich wohne hinter Mauern." War meine Antwort. "Die Villa ist zweistöckig mit etwa 200 Quadratmetern Wohnfläche. Vier Schlafzimmer, Pool vor der Türe."     

"Hast du auch eine Hausbar?" fragte er weiter. Ich wusste schon, worauf er hinaus wollte. 

"Weisst du was? Warum kommste am Wochenende nicht zu mir und probierst mal unser selbstgebrautes. Wir setzen uns auf meine Veranda und schauen dem Treiben am Pool zu",  machte ich ihm den Vorschlag. 

"Hört sich gut an. Hättest du was gegen zwei weitere Gäste?" fragte er grinsend. 

Ich hatte durchaus nichts dagegen. Solch ein hohes Tier in unserer Corporation hat sicher schon Verbindungen zum CIA hier in Saudi geknüpft, und ich stellte mir das recht interessant vor, mit solchen Hechten ein vergnügliches Gespräch bei mir zu Hause beim Umtrunk zu führen. Kontakte sind wichtig in der Fremde. Und wer weiss, wozu man sie in der Zukunft noch mal braucht. 

Ich willigte also sofort ein, zeigte ihm in der Mittagspause "meine" Villa, damit er weiss, wo's lang geht (er bewertete sie als geeignet) und liess in froher Erwartung das Wochenende auf mich zukommen. 

Ich gab ihm auch eine Ersatz-Remote-Control, mit der sich das Tor in den Compound (Expat-Ghetto) aus dem Wagen durch die Windschutzscheibe öffnen liess. 

Am Donnerstag Mittag trudelte er in seinem geliehenen Chevy ein. Donnerstag? Ja, das Wochenende liegt in Arabien anders, als bei uns. Dort ist der Donnerstag unser Samstag und der Freitag unser Sonntag. Deswegen übrigens das in den Nachrichten oft erwähnte Freitags-Gebet, welches das wichtigste der Woche ist und zu dem alle in ihre Moschee strömen. Es ist mit unserem Sonntagsgottesdienst vergleichbar. 

Als sich die Türen seines Chevy's öffneten, traute ich meinen Augen nicht. 

Zwei Damen um die Dreizig stiegen aus und ein grinsender Jack führte sie untergehakt auf meine Veranda, auf der ich wohl wie angewurzelt und mit offenem Mund sass. 

Die Damen begrüssten mich im besten texanischen Akzent und hielten ihre Wangen sogleich zum (wienerischen) Begrüssungsbussi hin. Die eine hiess Peggy, die andere Sue.  

Mir wackelten die Knie. 

Wie sich herausstellte, waren sie Krankenschwestern im King Khalid Hospital. Dort wird vier Tage durchgearbeitet und dann haben sie drei Tage frei. 

Jack hat das schon nach wenigen Tagen in Saudi sofort geschnallt. Wie? Ganz einfach. Er hat lediglich ein paar alte Marines in Riad in der amerikanischen Botschaft kontaktiert und die haben ihn sogleich eingewiesen. Marines-Bande halten ewig! 

Und da war noch etwas, was ich noch nicht wusste. Im King Khalid Hospital liess sich die Abwesenheit über Nacht mit ein paar Tricks, unterstützt durch wohlgesinnte Kolleginnen, verschleiern. Abwesenheit über Nacht ist alleinstehenden Damen, auch Expats, in Saudi Arabien strengstens verboten. 

So kam es, dass wir vier auch die Nacht in "meiner" Villa verbrachten. Was dort abging, überlasse ich der Phantasie der Leser. Irgendwie hatten wir vier das Gefühl, dass wir innerhalb solch eines verklemmten Staates ausgiebige Ausschweifungen nicht nur verdient hätten, sondern sie unsere Pflicht wären.   

Am nächsten Morgen sassen Jack und ich auf der Veranda und beobachteten das Treiben am Pool, während unsere temporären Lebensabschnittspartnerinnen noch schliefen. Meine Stereoanlage, bis zum Anschlag aufgedreht, spielte "Peggy Sue" von Buddy Holly. Irgendwie mussten ja die Mädels zwecks Frühstückszubereitung wach zu kriegen sein. Manch äusserst hübsche und sexy Ehefrau meiner libanesischen Nachbarn vergnügte sich im Pool. Nicht ganz ohne ihre weiblichen Reize im Bikini für unsere Augen zur Schau zu stellen. Ja, Libanesinnen geniessen die Blicke fremder Männer. 

Peggy und Sue erschienen, noch mit Schlafzimmerblick und nackten Beinen unter dem Schlaf-T-Shirt, auf der Veranda und fragten fast im Chor: "Wie möchtet ihr eure Eier?" 


Jack und ich beschlossen unabgestimmt nicht zu grinsen, was uns nicht unbedingt leicht fiel und Jack sagte mehr zu sich selbst: "Oh Mann, was bin ich froh, hinter Mauern zu sein. Das erste mal in meinem Leben. Ich liebe das Ghetto." Ich stimmte ihm unausgesprochen zu. 

P.S. wenn wir erwischt worden wären, nämlich mit nicht mit uns verheirateten Frauenzimmern, dazu Alkohol und scrambled eggs, wären wir sofort des Landes verwiesen worden, vielleicht nicht ohne ein paar Peitschenhiebe vorher. 

Hat sich das Risiko gelohnt? Defininitiv!!!

Part 7 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land

The Dawn of the Khmer Empire

We all know about Alexander the Great, Caesar, Dschingis Khan, Napoleon and Hitler. They all share a certain amount of atrocities more or less but have one thing in common, their hunger for territory.

A friend of feathers must have been born in the heart of the Khmer lands during the 8^th century AD. As so often in history, a man educated in the house of the then most powerful Kingdom of South-East-Asia, which was Java, suddenly develops a hunger for independence and uses the skills acquired from the masters to achieve his personal goals. In the case of Cambodia it was a man named Jayavarnam II. He united the so called “Water Chenlas” and became the King of Kambujadesa. His coronation year in 802 AD is the official birth year of the Khmer-Nation, the state of Camdodia today. He became King with Lord Shiva as his Avatar. That’s more than 400 years before Siam was founded and generations before Ankor Wat came to life.

The rumor says that he already convinced the “Land Chenlas” to join his movement of independence and that he was the one who layed down the corner stone of Preah Vihear at the edge of the Dangrek escarpment.

The historical evidence is weak. It might even be wishful thinking. But it shows how much tribute the Khmer people pay to this place. One thing seems to be pretty sure. Preah Vihear is older than Ankor Wat.

It is important to understand in this context that these kind of complexes were not built in one shot. They grew over the centuries. What we see today in ruins is the result of the final touches in the 13^th century. In the beginning there was no stone stair cases at the entrance, no buildings on the way up to the holy place at the edge of the Dangrek escarpment. All what there was is a place of worship for Shiva. Most probably a lingam only, located inside a small building of stone, carved out of the rock close by. Scientists claim that the oldest structures are on the topmost southern end of the Preah Vihear temple, close to the escarpment. Up there are many traces of ancient rock carving activities.         

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, April 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   

stay tuned... 

Part 6 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land

What’s the Problem?

It’s human ignorance, of course. Until the 20^th century South-East Asia barely knew borders in the western sense, not to mention imaginary lines on a piece of paper called map, before the colonial powers discovered their interest in this geography. All what counted was the influential power over people sparsely spread along the rivers and sea coasts and more rarely over almost inaccessible territories in the jungles, hills and mountains. Whoever paid tribute to the occasional “tax collector” was considered to be part of the subject community of a distant king who provided protection against roaming thiefs if his mind found it worthwhile.

Unthinkable, even ridiculous, the imagination that a person can stand with one leg in a foreign country and with the other on his home soil. This all changed when the British and the French arrived in the area. While the British established themselves in China, controlled the sea routes to this golden egg with their fleet, the French tried to sneak into China via country way and rivers, especially along the Mekhong. They have been the first westerns to explore this river upstream. The French failed but the name “Indochina” remains in the history books as an expression of their wishful thinking. So they got tough on their occupied territories  south of China and sucked the most out of it as they could do.

Siam, at that time, seemed to be under British influence from their point of view but it didn’t stop the French nibbling on Siamese influential areas. The French encashed South Vietnam and the coastal areas of Cambodia, then the whole of Laos and North-Cambodia, by then occupied by Siam. They broke several agreements with Siam and continued to extend their “Indochina” territory to the expense of Siam. In 1907 a final agreement with Siam was signed which satisfied the British interests. Siam had no choice other than to follow suit. The borders defined by then are the borders of Thailand today.

The Paknam incident of 1893 was too fresh in the Siamese minds. At that time French gunboats forced their way up the Chao Phraya river to the vicinity of the Royal Palace. King Rama V is quoted: ”I felt like a frog in a coconut shell”.

However, the 1907 agreement had no hidden agenda or contained a threat of force by the French, if Siam wouldn’t sign. It was proceeded by the establishment of a joint border commission. The French brought in the skills for land surveys and the necessary technical instruments and the Siamese provided administrative and logistical support. To cut the long story short, the French did all the works in the almost impenetrable outback’s, produced finally all the maps and attached them to the to be signed agreement.

Siam signed trustfully, hoping that the conflict with this colonial power was solved once and for all. It was, at last from the French point of view. The French hunger for territory in this part of the world was nursed and no further demands occurred from their side.

So, what’s the problem?

The answer is, the Siamese couldn’t read maps. They fully relied on the written commitment of the joined border commission that the border between Siam and Indochina is supposed to follow natural geographic conditions as there are escarpments, often called watersheds, or large rivers as is the case to the better part between Laos and Thailand. King Rama V saw the point as one in the western world highly educated person and called specialists from Britain and Germany into the country to teach his administration in map reading and interpretation. All these consultants left after a while frustrated about the inability of the Siamese to comprehend the meaning of a map. So it came, despite all of this, that the royal house of Siam distributed the maps all over the Kingdom to the province and state officials and considered them as documentaries of the fixed Thai border lines. New editions were ordered from the French government frequently when need arose.

It took the Thai government more than 40 years to recognize their mistake. The maps showed a sneaky little deviation from the natural border lines. Instead of marking the Dangrek escarpment as a national border all the way, they showed an exceptional aberration at Preah Vihear. Thailand went to war against Cambodia in the early fifties of the previous century and occupied the temple grounds of Preah Vihear…   

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, April 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   

stay tuned... 

Part 5 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land

Crossing the border to Cambodia

The distance between the hill on the Thai side, described in the previous blog entry Part 4, and Preah Vihear is traversed by bullets and grenades too often nowadays. At peaceful times tourists and locals stroll along the road up to its end in no man’s land. On their way they pass an inconspicuous wooden shack, the Thai immigration and border point. Close by some uniformed army border controls might sit leisurely under a parasol having small talk and trying to kill time.

It’s easy to pass this point unrecognized and in ignorance, but a friendly call: “Hey, where are you going?” suggests that this is a place of some significance. After presenting the passport, signing a piece of paper and paying five Baht one may tune into the song: “Cambodia, here I come.” So it was in December 2006. The passport remains unharmed by any additional stamp. Five Baht is a ridiculous small amount. Far less than one EUR, USD, Pound Sterling or Swiss Frank. Amazing Thailand!

The road ends abruptly on a rocky plain of sandstone without transition.

After crossing a gate on a bridge over a small and filthy stream shabby dwellings receive the visitor. Some outlets present cheap cigarettes, cheap and faked spirituous brand beverages and perfumes as well as overpriced souvenirs. The whole little village is tacky and bare of any sanitary infrastructure. Thai people living in villages downstream and dependant on the water often complained in vane about the pollution caused by Cambodians. This settlement was leveled several times on Thai request with threat of force but popped up again and again. Since the renewed fighting between the two countries in 2011 this village is abandoned and wrecked.

According to the still binding agreement and attached maps signed by French Indochina and Siam in the year 1907 this little stream marks the national border between Thailand and Cambodia. Very unusual to say the least. This exceptional deviation from the natural borderline, which would be the edge and watershed of the Danrek escarpment, as it is elsewhere, means trouble…    

Nevertheless, the stone cased entrance of Preah Vihear greets the visitor during untroubled times. The Cambodians, preferring to be addressed as Khmers, ask for 200 Baht entrance fee.

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, April 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   

stay tuned... 

Part 4 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land

Pa Mo I Daeng

Private cars are not allowed beyond the parking lot although the road leads further on South towards a long stretched hill looking like a gently inclined ramp approximately 800 meters ahead. Preah Vihear.

At the left hand side of the road a signposted path leads into a small forested mount. Wooden planks above ground ease navigation and allow exploring the hill without the risk of stumbling upon a forgotten landmine. There are two Sala(s), open Pavillions, on top of this mount.

As seen from the Cambodian position

The Royal Thai Army positioned artillery on this hill since 2010. They have a clear vision to Preah Vihear from this raised location. These are  tactical military grounds nowadays. Gone, the undisturbed tranquil fascination about South-East-Asia, the admiration and respect for ancient places. An artificial external enemy distracts from internal national problems. Same old story again and again. Mankind will never learn from history. The reason is obvious. Personal interests of those at power.    

A guy with typical Khmer features, high cheekbones, dark skin and husky stature, glances lost in thoughts across the no man’s land towards Preah Vihear. He presumably owns a Thai ID, but the border is definitely an annoyance to him. Most people in the Thai provinces of Surin, Buriam and Si Sa Ket speak Khmer within their families and among their friends. Only at school and if involved in official Thai government or business affairs they speak Thai. The observant and attentive Pattaya-tourist or expatriate with knowledge of the colloquial Thai language might have recognized the strange words many Bargirls exchange among each other. The majority of the “service girls” in the tourist spots comes from poor provinces in Thailand and Surin, Buriam and Si Sa Ket belong to them.

Two lonely chedis serve as a landmark in no man’s land between Thailand and Cambodia. Their shape is extremely unusual and it seems that their character is a unique part of the Khmer architecture, nowhere else to be seen. These two chedis each still contain the fundament of a lingam inside. A lingam is a simplistic depiction of Lord Shiva. In modern times it would be called “phallus symbol”. Kukrit’s home in Bangkok showcases a fine example of this kind. There's no Khmer temple without at least one lingam. 

Lingam in Kukrit's home, Bangkok

The ones original placed inside these twin chedis have been long since stolen. A fate common to many artifacts at Preah Vihear.          

A cliff  with a Buddhist bras-relief named “Pa Mo I Daeng” is accessible from this little hill across the Preah Vihear slope. Literally translated: “(Buddha) The one without customary constraints (carved) into grey rock (and painted with) red colors”

Source: Wikimedia Commons

The cliff “Pa Mo I Daeng” as seen from the view point near the tourist information office.    

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, April 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   

stay tuned...

Part 3 - Preah Vihear No Man's Land

Khao Pra Wihan National Park

 All pictures of Preah Vihear in this blog sequel were privately taken end of 2006. During that time the situation was tranquil and peaceful, complemented by business optimism at this restive border area. A huge parking lot, a tourist information office, restaurants and a market place with souvenir shops were built on the Thai side just one or two years before. The people’s vision was directed towards a prosperous future, the conflicts of the past put aside. In the year 2006 Preah Vihear was reviving as a mystical ancient showplace, worth visiting. So it seemed…

         Parking lot and shop rows

Tourist Information Office

The avenues between the building complexes in this model of Preah Vihear are not to scale. In reality they are longer.

Restaurants

There is a viewpoint at the Thai side near the parking lot directly at the edge of the Dangrek escarpment. It seems that one world ends here and another begins deep down there. 

The tourist office, restaurants and market buildings were damaged or destroyed by Cambodian artillery during the February 2011 clashes. 

Cautionary Remark: Whoever intends to visit Preah Vihear / Khao Pra Wihan should ask for advice beforehand. As of now, April 2011, the place is closed for visitors. Thai and Cambodian troops face each other in close proximity. Renewed battles could emerge at any time.   

stay tuned...